Like Elizabeth Bennet, I could spend my whole life in Derbyshire. Lucky Lizzie did so and even more fortunately married the delectable Darcy. I love the place for long weekends, even though I’ve never been lucky enough to happen upon a dishevelled Darcy sauntering through the grounds of his stately home!
Mr. Darcy’s home county may not be the obvious choice for a holiday but it has so much to offer. Whitsun Week is the traditional beginning of the well dressing season.
Some say this tradition began as a thank you to the villagers of Eyam, who isolated themselves and the deadly plague virus and thus prevented the disease spreading.
In 1665, the plague arrived with a parcel of cloth for tailor George Vicars. He was the first victim. Villagers, with the encouragement of their rector William Mompesson, made a decision to remain in the village, cutting themselves off from surrounding communities. The Earl of Devonshire, from nearby Chatsworth, donated food and medical supplies and goods were left outside the village boundary in vinegar soaked holes – an attempt at disinfection. One of the most touching stories is of Emmott Sydall and her sweetheart Rowland Torre, who lived in a neighbouring village. Their only method of communication was to call to one another across the rocks until Emmott’s inevitable death. Poor Rowland, unable to help and knowing the danger his lover was in.
Before running its course, the plague decimated the population of Eyam, claiming over 260 lives, young and old. An extraordinary sacrifice but one which helped prevent the spread of the disease.
But, back to well dressing. Some say it dates back to pagan times (and certainly the ancient Celts worshipped and adorned precious water supplies) and some claim it as a tribute to the purity of water found in natural spring wells. It’s a very English tradition that thrives in areas, like Derbyshire, that abound with natural springs.
The actual decoration consists of a wooden frame filled with damp clay. Flower petals, beans, seeds and other natural materials are pressed into the clay to make an image. Hazards include the clay drying out and birds stealing the decorative edible bits!
So, if you’re out and about in Derbyshire over the next few weeks, seeking a Darcy in a wet shirt, look out for some well-dressed wells!
Derbyshire – well 😉 there’s the World Heritage Site along the Derwent Valley, associated with Arkwright, and the Silk Mill Museum if you’re interested in the history of the textile industry; Pickford’s House in Derby, which is Georgian and five years older than Jane Austen; Buxton (I saw a mention of William Gaskell in the room in the museum about William Boyd Dawkins); the Hope Valley Railway line (very scenic)… …and the peregrines on Derby Cathedral. No, I’ve never seen Mr. Darcy either, but it’s very many (too many) years since I visited Chatsworth.
Thanks for dropping by, Agenoria! Derbyshire has, indeed, many wonderful things to offer. Great place 🙂